Видео

Yes, that can be helpful if you have icing.

You mean an exterior deck? If you have used pressure treated pine it won't be easy to achieve a dark finish unless you use a solid or semi-transparent stain, and those generally do not hold up well on flat, horizontal surfaces. You may get a year or two out of an application.

Ha! I guess there are worse things to be tormented by, so count your blessings. I'm glad the video was helpful, and thank you for the kind words.

It's funny you ask this now--I was just at my local lumberyard today and they had this stuff for sale right on the counter. The label was the "Christy's" brand. Honestly, I'm not certain of the brand and manufacturer anymore, but every tube I've ever bought which said "white hot" on it was the same stuff inside.

@@enduringcharm Its made by H.B.Fuller

You're overlooking a few things. For one, air compressors are used for more than just powering tools. If you do any automotive or motorcycle work, you'll need a compressor for seating tire beads and filling tires, for blowing out rust and debris, for clearing oil lines and passages in engines and transmissions, for holding valves in place while working, etc. So if the compressor is already there for those things it makes sense to use it for tools as well. Further, air powered impact wrenches are far more powerful than battery powered impact wrenches. If you do construction work, there are battery powered nail drivers, but they also have limitations. For example, air powered framing nailers still far outperform battery powered nailers and air powered nailers are generally lighter and cheaper. Air is also used in construction to blow out debris or to power paint sprayers. So it really depends on your circumstances, your budget and the type of work you do whether air-powered tools make sense.

@@enduringcharmThanks for the feedback. After your explanation, it makes sense. I guess in my case it wouldn’t work for laser cutters and engraving machines, although some claim they use it with their lasers. Maybe for those using it for 1 to 2 job -maybe. For me, using a 40-watt laser for an hour-long cut jobs, an air compressor wouldn’t be consistent with airflow. Plus, the possibility of getting moisture into the hose and onto the laser lens is not a good idea. That said, I understand where you’re coming from. Thanks.

Window sills are not all standard angles, and window installation may change the angle as well. An adjustable seat would be possible, but I guess manufacturers prefer not to get involved. I did just see a new window AC style which splits the unit into two sections, and the window sash closes deep into the middle. Not sure how well that would work, but at least somebody is trying something!

Boy, do I feel your pain! I have the identical problem every year with my work truck, because the salt they put down on the roads just eats it alive. I typically spend a day using an angle grinder and wire wheel or sanding disk to take the rust off and then I repaint. The corners are a problem. The multi-tool is probably not your solution, though, because it lacks attachments which are useful for this purpose, aside from a scraper blade. You can push a wire wheel hard into a corner, but it won't get everything. If you own a reciprocating saw they do make a wire brush attachment for that, which moves in a linear fashion and may help somewhat. You can buy small rotary wire brushes for use in a drill, and those can get into tight corners. But, you can't put all that much pressure on them. I typically use a combination of all these things, as well as hand work, until I get good and annoyed. Then I'll spray "rust converter" or use naval jelly to get the remainder and call it a day. Life is too short.

Obviously I'm not much help from a distance, but if you examine the ductwork there must be a way to remove a section or open a side.

It would likely not be too difficult to make new keys for your lock. Blank skeleton keys are readily available, you just need one about the right size. The business end of the keys were never very intricate, you could use a hand file to get close enough.

Glad it helped!

The HUGEST positive about the Oscillitory tool on Drywall is you cut the perfect Patch while you open up the wall!.. Any wierd shape you want. That was never quite achieved with the roto-zip.. close/useable, but NOT Perfect.

Did you watch the whole video? The old siding is just cut back to create the 90 instead of the 45. See again starting at 13:46.

It's a little more complicated than that. Modern homes are wired very differently than those from decades ago, and there are very different code requirements. Breaker systems now include both GFCI and AFCI versions, and new homes must be built with AFCI for many circuits. Remodeling also triggers code updates in some cases, particularly for baths and kitchens. Fuse systems are generally older, and often lacking even a ground wire. Plus, the cables will become brittle or have failing insulation. Many fuses may respond inappropriately and trip when there are motors used on a circuit with a transient high start-up draw. And fuseboxes do leave open the possibility of exposure to live electric when changing a fuse or using an incorrectly rated fuse.

That's a great idea, thanks!

Yes, any nails in the way can be nipped off, or sawed off or possibly bent away. Obviously you want to avoid pushing a nail upwards or moving it around too much so you don't get a nail pop and a leak through the shingles above.

The rear legs simply have a slight angle to them, which is cut from a straight board. I showed that angle and approximately where to start that angle in the video. So you'll take a board which is wide enough, draw a straight line up to where the angle starts, and then a straight line back at an angle to represent where you lean when sitting. I think it will make more sense once you start to lay it out.

The information you want is covered in detail in another video. See this: ruclips.net/video/n6KzUjI1iAE/видео.htmlsi=f1MfIj1mgy6iRTWQ

Yes, all the joints are glued and ideally you'll apply cement to both sides of the joint or else make an effort to spread the cement thickly so there is time for both sides to fuse. It can be tricky working alone to move fast enough, I know. That's another reason to do a light sanding and paint the columns, because it allows you to correct any squeeze out.

Are you talking about the sleeve which slides over the clip and keeps the clip from coming out? And it looks like the style in the video? That should slide out pretty easily. Have you already removed the escutcheon? If you are having trouble with the sleeve there are two possibilities I can imagine. One is that somebody used silicone and it is basically glued in place. The other is that you may have water or soap deposits which have wedged it in place. Shine a light inside the tube and see if there is anything noticeable. I would first try removing it by twisting back and forth as you are pulling slowly and continuously. It may take minutes of this kind of pressure to loosen it. You can try spraying in the tube with a penetrant to help loosen deposits. Those sleeves are readily available, so you can use pliers to pull it and just replace the damaged sleeve.

@@enduringcharm Yes I am talking about the sleeve which slides over the clip and keeps the clip from coming out. I never thought about somebody using silicone and it is basically glued in place.Or maybe they used plumbers putty? They did that on the threads for the bath tub drain, and it wouldn't budge either when I tried to turn it loose. I ended up cutting it out with a jig saw. Yes I removed the escutcheon. I do have water deposits which I think could be from the cartridge leaking, I sprayed calcium, lime, rust remover, and was able to get some of it off.Maybe I can try removing it by twisting back and forth as I'm pulling on it. When this was a new construction it appears that a lot of amateurs did work on it, and they weren't licensed. I also think that somehow it passed inspection with not everything done to code. Knowing the people who developed this building, and hired other people to do shady work, it wouldn't surprise me if they paid off building inspectors so they wouldn't have to spend money to tear out, and redo a lot of things to keep money in their own pockets.

I actually see that quite a bit--I'll be doing a remodel and wonder how a bath or kitchen ever passed inspection originally. Hopefully after a good soaking your sleeve will loosen up.

@@enduringcharm I got the sleeve out, just trying to get the stubborn clip off so I can get the cartridge out.

The clip should pop right off. Catch the top loop of the clip with needle nose pliers and pry upward.

Yeah, the cost of everything has just become absurd. I was just at an auto parts store and they were selling single windshield wipers for $40!

I really can't be much help without seeing the circuit in person. What I can say is that there is almost always a way to accomplish what you need in residential wiring without too much trouble. If you get stuck it may be worth hiring an electrician to sort it out for you.

Glad it was helpful!

With an approach like that I would be careful of two things. One, damage to the finish, despite your luck so far. And, two, greater likelihood of flying wood or nails due to the greater leverage. Personally, I like to have tight control of the strip removal and precise placement of the flat bar.

While they do make diamond blades for this tool, it's practical use would be limited to something like trimming an existing tile installation for plumbing access or whatever. If you are attempting to install new tile, you can use a wet saw for porcelain or ceramic tile or a tile cutter for thin ceramic tile. Some installers use diamond blades on grinders, but I would not recommend that due to the dust and poor cut control. If you are installing new tile and you want a precise, good looking job, rent or buy a wet saw.

I don't have a specific answer for you, but I think you'll find that the life of a dampener will depend on many things. The quality of the original component is one factor, the amount of turns and force used in those turns is another, and even things like ambient temperature during use could be a factor. The best approach is just to test the dampeners when you feel a change, or do it as part of your annual maintenance.

If you have significant rot, then it's probably best to have an experienced carpenter take a look.

It can sometimes be a struggle to get out the pieces and perhaps somebody with more experience will approach the task with different technique. I suspect it will eventually break free, but worse case you can always just replace the whole valve.

@@enduringcharm that's what I'm afraid of and that will require an actual plumber. Do have any clue what that might cost, if it comes to that? I'm in San Antonio, TX.

If you need to replace the entire valve with a new one the cost will depend on many factors, including physical access to the valve, whether you have tile or a plastic/fiberglass surround, the type of pipes you have, and the labor and availability of plumbers in your area. You should be able to get a free estimate, though. Probably just the cartridge can be removed by somebody with a little more experience, I suspect.

I have both a corded and cordless DeWalt multitool, although I rarely use the corded one anymore. Most of the major brands of multitools are very good, but I find the trigger style of the Dewalt to be useful. See this for more info: ruclips.net/video/X5oyljd-fTo/видео.htmlsi=ao23ZGUc51D1ihZz

The process can be a little fiddly, but even with my tired old eyes I can get nearly perfect to the scrap wood. Generally you go slightly too high and then back off for the final adjustment. I use my jointer mostly for edge joining so I don't need to change the blades that often. The helix thing has pluses and minuses--it may be more forgiving as far as keeping sharp edges available but the cost is nothing to sneeze at.

@@enduringcharm completely agree. I fiddle with it for about an hour or two and I finally got it decent enough. I would like to sell the one I have now and buy a heal head, but it wouldn’t make sense unless I can get at least half what I paid for the one I have now which is a powermatic 6 inch long bed

Of course there are differences among wood species, and they will take stains or even clear finishes differently. That said, the basic process is the same. It may be trickier to get the color right on a lighter wood because you can't just cover up imperfections with a dark glaze. Practice on a scrap or on the inside of the cabinet or drawer where it doesn't show.